Metron Ariston

by Eva Dimopoulou (GR), fashion

A person needs a little madness, or else he never dares to cut the rope and be free.”
Nikos Kazantzakis

Metron Ariston collection is a continuous research for balance between opposing forces such as hard-soft, feminine-masculine, freedom-limit.

“Whatever you do, wherever you are, never forget who you are and where you come from.”

The structured shapes and elongated silhouettes, in combination with the leftover fabrics and the crochet patchwork that descent from my grandmother’s handwork, come to a balanced alliance with the freedom and the nudity that contributes to embrace the woman’s body and sexuality.

The ultimate aim is to rebrand history, while forming a new trend of reinstating and reproducing the leftovers as new. The collection reminds people of the importance of craftsmanship, which is an element that holds on to values, morals and beliefs for each nation.

Like a modern amazon, the muse of this collection rebels sensually, being partly uncovered using her courage and bravery as a shield, providing historical awareness against restrictions and stereotypes. Life is all about choices.
Greeks call this “veos” (βίος), where veos means life and life is a continuous struggle.

One of the most significant values in Greek culture is family

Whatever you do, wherever you go, never forget who you are and where you come from

MAINLAND GREECE, 19th CENTURY : Ethnical traditional Greek costumes. Handmade with intricate detail, taking many months to complete, a symbol of the country’s national pride, Representing the significant battles fought throughout Greece’s modern history. Many of the details of the costume hide secrets and symbols.

CHAIN : Significant symbol that attributes the interlacing of two opposite elements - hard-soft, feminine-masculine.

A modern amazon, rebelling sensually, using her courage and bravery as a shield against restrictions and stereotypes

MUSE : Female artist, autonomous & daring. She creates her art with her own hands, she appreciates culture and crafts. She is smart with an open sexuality. A woman who doesn’t adapt to anything that goes against her creative, open-minded and artistic way of living.

FAMILY : Family is a significant aspect in Greek culture. Up to a point it influences and shapes the character of a person and determines his course in life. Taking inspiration from the opposing forces of my parents, I am trying to find the balance between feminine and masculine, sensitivity and stiffness.

CRETE : The 5th largest Mediterranean island well known for its culture. It represents the bold aspect of freedom and feminine power. Women were embraced and worshipped. Lots of art and decorations, red, black and off-white colours.

Photographers
Léa Martin Abazoglou
Laura Luca

Models
Yria Tamari
Marylou Sharrock
Francesca Anstey

Shoe Designer
Rodothea Verouchi

Greek Team
Zoi Kaiki
Konstantina Thanopoulou
Akis Thanopoulos

Photography
Laura Luca

Video
Vladimir Vidanovski

Visual director
Maarten Spruyt

Music
Marylou

Assistant
Ivor Borovecki

Your Own Power

by Hailey Kim, fashion

My childhood experiences triggered me to research the life of the older generations in South Korea, and in particular the role of women in the patriarchal society

My grandmother and her three sons. This picture is taken in 1976, when she was 30 years old. She was a hard-working lady as a farmer and raised her 6 children by herself. Seeing my young grandmother with a straight back makes me think about how strong my grandmother was. Because in my childhood memory, she was very wrinkled and her waist was bent from the hard labor. Even though she has a crooked back, she worked very hard until she got diagnosed with dementia.

I’ve always wondered why girls cannot be treated in the same way boys are treated

Korean women sea divers called Haenyeo in Korean. Haenyeo is a woman who goes into the sea to collect seafood in Jeju Island, wearing a simple wet suit, diving flippers and mask without an oxygen tank, and enters the sea to collect abalone, sea urchin and shellfish.

There are only women’s diver in South Korea. The reason is that in the early 1900s, when both men and women divers have existed, mend had too many requests to collect the abalones and they couldn’t endure the hard work anymore. As a result, men left Jeju Island.

Another hypothesis is that compared to the women, men does not have a good lung capacity because of smoking and drinking. Since the lung capacity is very important to be a diver, only women divers are survived in the industry. Haenyeo is the symbol of Jeju Island and they represent an independent woman in South Korea. Haenyeo needs a weight belt for diving and the belt is called ppongdol. Normally they make the ppongdol as a vest and the fabrics are their own choice. That’s why every Haenyeo has different patterned-vest.

While I was researching the women’s lives in the 1930s in South Korea, I found out there are many knotting technics in the outfits. They made knots to tie their skirts and pants or hold a baby. People used knotting for the practical reasons but it looks beautiful and adds some value on the outfits.

These pictures remind me of motherhood. Many women had to work and take care of their children without husband’s support in the 1930s

Patchwork, flowers and knotting techniques all come together in my designs

Photography
Laura Luca

Video
Vladimir Vidanovski

Visual direction
Maarten Spruyt

Assistant
Ivor Borovecki

Ode To The Traces of Life

by Hanakin Henriksson, fashion

download the thesis here

HERITAGE : Our idea of beauty and comfort is rooted in our past experiences, so to care for your inherited items and carrying traditions forward is to find pleasure in what’s part of you.

COLLECTING/HOARDING : I am a hoarder when in comes to old sheets, lace works and linens so this will always be part of my experience of beauty, to handle them is something that gives me great pleasure.

This collection is a protest against newness as a definition of beauty

PRIDE IN HANDCRAFT : What can your hands do? They are quite beautiful on their own and there is an irregularity in what they produce - identical copies are impossible. Nowadays we tend to be limited in what movements our hands make (we work through the keyboard or the phone) but to reconnect our bodies to our work is physical therapy.

WORN, UTILITARIAN CLOTHES FROM THE PAST : The simplicity of the garments and the harmonious cooperation between body and clothing makes these garments come alive in a spectacular way.

The provenance of the collected fabrics is written inside the garments, giving the wearer an experience of uniqueness and imagination

HANDWORK : Seeing the traces of someones hand creates an awareness of the time and labour needed to create something of value.

MENDING AS MEDITATION : Finding meaning in repetition and skill as tools for mental balance, a chance to think in silence. Repairing on the outside is repairing on the inside.

The garments represent a luxury of the soul, aiming to increase a sense of quotidian pleasure through the beauty of their history

Photography
Laura Luca

Film
Hanakin Henriksson

Additional footage
Vladimir Vidanovski

We Will Build An Unclear Future

by Hee Eun Kim, fashion

Everything can be anything and also nothing

Working on the edge of chaos reflects my perspectives on the in-between world

Searching for the untitled and undefined balance

BEHIND THE SCENES :
The facts about pretty Koreans -
plastic surgery or beauty filters are too visible an effort.
What is next?
The cut-outs to see skin, highlighting the knee.
Some of my outfits have these cut-out features.

Layered lines to support the structure.
Different textures between visible boning parts and hidden ones under other layers.
Using the boning to create the shape.

The order of the world :

A sign is a visual communication to understand the world
but the world is changing too fast.
We need new rules!!!

What they carry: No-one knows what happened before. Interesting shape of layered and tied -up trash .

Orderly chaos: Functional - but no function. The signs are no longer fit to convey the proper meanings because of unexpected circumstances.

3D rendering
Matas Buckus

Models
Max Heyman
Matas Buckus

Photography
Laura Luca

Video
Vladimir Vidanovski

Visual director
Maarten Spruyt

Assistant
Ivor Borovecki

Sticky Fingers – An Act of Matter

by Inge Vaandering, fashion

download the thesis here

Pulling us out of reality for a more imaginative and conscious perception of our feelings and surroundings

OBJECT : simplicity, or ‘eenvoud’ in Dutch. Staged picture of MDF with traces of use. Relation between materials, shape and light makes the object more important.

SERENITY : Spaces you can see through - maybe you’re not thinking of these as actual spaces but still they give the serenity of a space. The suggestion of being able to go inside.

MERGING IN DAILY LIFE : This price tag on the fabric is made with more care than other price tags I have seen. It’s almost like it belongs to the fabric.

SELF MADE TEXTILE DESIGN : I like the illusion created by the combination of the fabric and the technique. They strengthen each other’s characteristics.

In this picture I like the expression of the clothing. It almost seems too static to be worn. The duo could be persons as well as statues, would the picture have been painted in black and white.

Self-made miniature heads that could possibly replace human models. They remind me of gargoyle heads. Can’t these be alive as well?

MERGING IN DAILY LIFE : People meeting each other outside in the real world but they look like they are staged to belong together at that spot. They become just as important as the objects around them.

Partly self-staged, partly influenced by the behaviour of the object itself. I can see the shape of movement or life in this picture.

MERGING IN DAILY LIFE : The big metal mechanical claw destroying these fragile flowers. To me the knowledge that these flowers were planted by humans and thus not entirely natural, makes it less sad.

RITUAL : In this picture I feel passion, movement, tactility, sound, expression. A total experience is going on. It is not only about looking.

Questioning the role of our senses, I’m shifting focus from sight to bodily perception

MAGICAL REALISM : The figure pictured is on the edge of either being human or creature. Realistic and unrealistic. The distinction between human and object is minimised.

[Koch, Pyke. The Contortionist. Amsterdam: Stedelijk museum, 1955]

RITUAL : Laura fixing her pants that rip up time after time. The hours spent mending these pants make them very personal. The soul shifts from maker to object.

MERGING IN DAILY LIFE : My friend in a toile I made, doing her own work. The neutrality that arises, while the dress is so dramatic, brings an interesting context.

Tactility: This portrait hardly says anything about age or gender. Everything looks neutral and almost non-human. What gives away that it is in fact a person is that it depicts one but the tactility is totally different.

Photography
Laura Luca

Video
Vladimir Vidanovski

Visual director
Maarten Spruyt

Assistant
Ivor Borovecki

Music
Joep Beving

Dream a Little of Me

by Tony Ta, fashion

For Generation Z somehow screens seem to have taken over the role of caretaker

Stephen Tennant: A socialite, part of the elite from the past. People who were from the elite were also people others looked up to because they wanted to be them or be part of their circle. The power they showed off to influence people with. Now you can see this phenomenon again with idols and influencers on social media. The power to sell an image of a specific body type, way of dressing, products etc. Same power, different time area.

@itscamworld: The instagram boy of the moment. The good-looking influencer, his way of posing, his way of dressing, all hyped-up, The kind of boy that girls and boys are looking up to and idolise.

Calvin Klein ad Justin Bieber and Hailey Baldwin: 2 big celebrities with huge influence on teenagers. Posing in little clothing to show off their great physique. The ideal image… - teenagers think this is how they should look.

Yutha Yamanaka : Reaching out to something you can’t touch or have because everything happens behind a screen.

Everything for the gram: Nudity and less clothing has become the normal on social media to attract the attention of the viewer - sex sells.

Meticulously observing social media behavior of teenagers, presenting themselves way more mature due to our over-sexualized media culture

Online identity is simply performance

Doppelgänger, 2017. John Reuss: Representation of the mind how teenagers want to become a specific person. The Ideal. Slowly they become like clones of each other. You can see it in the way they all follow each other.

This Image represent that this phenomenon only last for a short period of time. It’s just a certain part of their life. They grow into it and then out of it again.

These powers to impress and influence are reminiscent of Stephen Tennant, a famous socialite of the 1920’s who through his decadent and flamboyant lifestyle was perceived “The Brightest of the Bright Young People” and as such a huge inspiration to me.

The Dreamers : A movie that is a part of the inspiration. The 3 main characters are recreating movie scenes and they have to guess which movie it is. If they’re not able to it they have to perform a sex-related punishment. It’s nice because they have the freedom to have a childish mindset but on the other hand the punishments tell something different.

Models
Dylan Kraayenhagen (Models Rock Agency)
Jan Dijkhuis ( Brooks modeling agency)
Timo Tiffert
Dawoon Jung

Makeup & hair
Melanie Foëh / Corine Hamel

Graphic Design
Marcos Kueh

Photography
Laura Luca

Video
Vladimir Vidanovski

Visual director
Maarten Spruyt

Assistant
Ivor Borovecki

Music
Darkstar

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